These cake colours look their best under strong stage lighting. They are pinker and darker to counter the washing out of colour under intense light.
For white actors where this washing out of skin colour is most marked, I suggest 1002 as a base for women and 1027 for men. The J range of colours are best for brown actors. My advice is to try J1 for women and J5 for men. I find that black actors don't usually need cake makeup, but Grimas makeup powder is perfect for dark skin under stage lights.